Visiting the Producers ① "Arai Farm"

I want to create things that I find delicious, and I want to continue doing things that I enjoy.

Many of the vegetables served at Ferme La Terre Biei Main Store restaurant are provided by "Arai Farm." The connection began seven years ago when Ferme's chef heard a rumor that there was a farmer in Biei Town who was growing vegetables using methods that minimized the use of pesticides, and knocked on their door. We spoke with Mr. Arai, who supports the flavors of Ferme.

Having a variety makes it more interesting, and I think organically grown vegetables are just plain delicious.

– How many different kinds of vegetables are you growing now?

"It's hard to say exactly how many (laughs). Well, we grow a lot of varieties, like several types of tomatoes, several types of zucchini, and so on. It varies from year to year, and if there's soil, we sow new seeds there, so we grow a variety of vegetables throughout the year."

Mr. Arai was working in the printing industry in Tokyo. He had absolutely no connection to agriculture, or even to Biei Town. Yet, when the opportunity for early retirement arose at his previous job, he somehow decided without hesitation that he would "try farming."

"I've always enjoyed working with soil, so I'd always wanted to try it someday. By pure chance, there was a pioneer in pesticide-free farming in Biei Town, and I was able to learn from him, so I came to Biei Town."

After three years of training, Arai Farm is now in its seventh year (2024). "At first, there was so much I didn't know, so I was just curious about this (not using pesticides) and wanted to try it. This land wasn't originally used for pesticide-free farming, so for the first few years, I was mainly focused on soil preparation. I would spread fertilizer and prepare the soil. You can only tell if it's worked or not when you can harvest, so it's an adjustment process that takes years and requires patience. But I think the vegetables we grow this way are delicious. I want to grow things that I think are delicious. Also, people often say it must be hard, but I don't think it's that hard. Because it's fun."

Customers are diverse, and so are their methods.

Arai says that because he literally came from a different field, he believes he has the strength to turn ideas into reality without being bound by conventional thinking.

"The reason we grow so many varieties is because most of our customers are individuals. When we send out orders where we leave the selection up to the customer, for example, with zucchini, it's more fun to have a variety of types when they open the box, isn't it? Even when we sell at local farmers markets, it's more interesting to have a variety depending on the season."

"For example, I'm currently experimenting with making dried strawberries, and I'm thinking that I could make them fully dried for general customers, but semi-dried for the shop. I think that different customers have different needs, so I think it's good to have different methods. That's why orders from La Terre are fun; they come up with interesting things like 'Kentarou'*, which I don't think anyone else would need (laughs)."
* "Kentarou"... A rare and highly valued strawberry grown in Hokkaido, with a very short harvest season. It's incredibly sweet! (Editor's comment)

"Right now, I'm working with my partner in Sapporo to brand 'Diamond Garlic.' We brainstorm product ideas together, and then I leave the processing to him while I focus on growing delicious vegetables. The other day, our garlic mayonnaise was featured on the TV show 'Matsuko's Unknown World,' and I'm happy that it was well-received. I can also try other things that large farms can't do, like combining garlic with salt or aging it to make black garlic. That's how I want to continue experimenting with different ideas and creating things that I think are interesting and delicious, without limiting myself to just one sales channel or method."

Now, they've found like-minded colleagues who share the same vision and are working together, including people who have moved to Biei Town because they want to work at Arai Farm!

"Farming is about working with nature, so there are basically no days off, and you have to work long hours, so of course there are tough aspects. The town is recruiting new farmers, but I don't think the support is very strong yet. Even so, I still enjoy it. I always think that it's not like I have a specific skill, but if there's something I can pass on, I'll pass it on, and it doesn't have to be to my own children. I hope that the industry will become one where people who enjoy what they do can create delicious food the way they want, and that's what I want to work towards."

Behind the deliciousness of Mr. Arai's vegetables lies his steady yet unwavering belief.

(Interview June 2024)